This blog is for rambling about, well, everything that interests me. Gardening. The Farm. Perfume. Fashion. Photography. Fried chicken. Books. Clutter. Hoarding. Sewing. Writing. Murder Mysteries. Bacon. TV. Movies. Restaurants. Cooking. Oh, and don't forget the cat pictures.
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Rambling: Seasonal Perfume Preferences (And Voles)
So I've formed a theory about the seasonal change in perfume preferences.
As I mentioned in another post, my perfume preferences change drastically when the season changes. As the season starts to shift from summer to winter, citrus and fruit and mint and fresh bright florals are right out for me, while sweet gourmands, leather, musk, wood, smoke, and spices are in. And the whole process reverses as we approach spring.
Now, this makes sense if you just explain it by context. When the leaves start to turn, it looks like fall. So you start to want things associated with fall.
The problem with this theory is that the phenomenon starts in late August and early September. At that time, the leaves aren't turning. In California and Oregon, where I hang out, everything still looks and feels like summer. It's warm, it's bright, everything is still blooming. It seems premature for context-driven preferences. Nothing has really changed.
Except for day length.
The longest day of the year - the most hours of sunlight - is around June 21. After that, the days start getting shorter.
Day length triggers all sorts of things. It tells onions to start bulbing. It tells birds when to get moving in their migration. It tells plants when to flower and fruit. So I suppose there's no reason why it shouldn't tell humans when to start craving coffee and wood, rather than lemon and mint.
And, once I got the idea to search on things like "day length" and "scent cravings", I went Googling and found that meadow voles change their odor preferences based on day length. So there we are. All explained.
At least, all would be explained if we were meadow voles. Female meadow voles. Apparently the voles like the smell of other voles in the winter, when nesting together is useful, and dislike the smell of other voles in the summer, when nesting alone is the appropriate behavior.
So what survival characteristic is triggering, or mis-triggering, in humans to produce changing perfume cravings?
I can theorize that part of it is exactly the same as the voles. In winter, I like scents of musk and leather and civet and other animalic or sweaty scents, better than I like them in summer. In other words, in winter, I have a greater liking, or at least a greater tolerance, for smells associated with being near other creatures. For a season when being indoors with a bunch of warm people is probably good for survival, this seems like a useful thing.
Another part of it is surely about food. More Googling tells me that winter sunlight deprivation causes a winter shortage of serotonin. Eating carbohydrates helps cure that shortage. As a result, people commonly have cravings for carbohydrates in winter. So that seems like an explanation, right there, for the winter craving for sweet foody scents.
So the theory, totally unsupported by any data, is that in the winter, I crave the scents of things that are good for me in the winter - or the things that were good for my ancestors in winter thousands of years ago, when my wiring was being designed. No big surprise there. And the other part of the theory is that that craving is triggered not by actual winter - not by changing leaves and cold - but by the earlier and more subtle signal of shortening days.
That is all.
Photo 1: Wikimedia Commons. By Andre Karwath.
Photo 2: Wikimedia Commons. By Needsmoreritalin
Labels:
Day Length,
Perfume,
Rambling,
Seasonal Perfume Cravings
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Compilation: Galbanum
Yes, you have seen this before. But now that I've introduced compilations, the glorious green perfume note galbanum is an obvious topic.
Web Links:
Photo: By Tnarg 12345. Wikimedia Commons; click for details.
Web Links:
- I Smell Therefore I Am's Going Green, Part Two: Galbanum
- Fragrantica's Galbanum page, with a list of galbanum perfumes.
- A Basenotes list of fragrances having galbanum in the notes.
- Bois de Jasmin's Perfume Vocabulary & Fragrance Notes: Galbanum
Photo: By Tnarg 12345. Wikimedia Commons; click for details.
SOTD: Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond
Bois Blond is a puzzle.
On one wearing, it smells like a glorious melding of wood and hay and fresh air. Then, on the next wearing, it smells like stale nuts coated in stale varnish. This is, of course, just about my nose - many people consistently adore it.
Today is a stale varnish day. So today I'm resolved not to buy a bottle to replace my rapidly dwindling decant. Today I tell myself that it's a limited edition and I disapprove of limited editions. That it's expensive. That if I fall in love with it and want another bottle, I won't be able to get it. Today, it's no Bois Blond for me!
Next time, I'll once again be staring at my credit card and struggling not to pick up the phone.
Review Roundup: Aromascope and Aromascope again and Perfume-Smellin' Things and Perfume Posse and SakeCat and Nathan Branch and wine woman & song and Basenotes and WAFT and Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd.
Photo: By Jos. Wikimedia Commons. Click for details.
On one wearing, it smells like a glorious melding of wood and hay and fresh air. Then, on the next wearing, it smells like stale nuts coated in stale varnish. This is, of course, just about my nose - many people consistently adore it.
Today is a stale varnish day. So today I'm resolved not to buy a bottle to replace my rapidly dwindling decant. Today I tell myself that it's a limited edition and I disapprove of limited editions. That it's expensive. That if I fall in love with it and want another bottle, I won't be able to get it. Today, it's no Bois Blond for me!
Next time, I'll once again be staring at my credit card and struggling not to pick up the phone.
Review Roundup: Aromascope and Aromascope again and Perfume-Smellin' Things and Perfume Posse and SakeCat and Nathan Branch and wine woman & song and Basenotes and WAFT and Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd.
Edited to add to the Review Roundup.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
SOTD: Frederic Malle Une Rose
Those Roses are strong, grown-up roses with a bitter undertone, with or without incense. This category includes Czech & Speake No. 88 and Dark Rose, Tauer's Incense Rose, and several others that my nose, though perhaps no one else's, groups together. Perfume freaks adore these things and I want to be a proper perfume freak! But I can't, in this. The only one that I can comfortably wear is Eau d'Italie's Paestum Rose.

It's the often-citron-like bitterness I just can't get past. I don't demand that my rose be sweet or fruity or woody, but I just can't like it with that particular bitter note. Maybe it's because it's almost a food note, and roses and food don't combine for me? Maybe it's because I'm just too trained to expect sweetness, or, at the most challenging, tartness, to accompany a rose?
I'll be waiting this one out all day, to see if I can acquire the taste. But I don't really anticipate that I'll be returning with an epiphany.
Review Roundup: Now Smell This and Emergency Backpack and Bois de Jasmin and Perfume-Smellin' Things and Sweet Diva and PeredePierre and Perfume Posse.
Photo: Mine
Answers: Those acronyms
So what are those silly acronyms that I keep using?
SOTD: Scent Of The Day
BOTD: Book Of The Day
DCOTD: DeClutter Of The Day
I think that's all so far. But it's only a matter of time.
Edited: Declutter Of The Day has become my second blog.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
SOTD: Scent Of The Day
BOTD: Book Of The Day
DCOTD: DeClutter Of The Day
I think that's all so far. But it's only a matter of time.
Edited: Declutter Of The Day has become my second blog.
Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Monday, November 2, 2009
Food: Copra Onions
I want Copra onions.
I love onions. I especially love caramelized onions - not the ones that are cooked until damp and floppy with sugar added, but the ones that are cooked very slowly in fat until all water has been rendered out and what's left is the natural caramelized sugars of the onion.
This means that I want an onion with the least water and the most sugars. The first seems like a lower priority - you can always cook the water out. The second is the real priority. When the water's gone, I want an intensely oniony and sweet mass of fat and utterly collapsed onions.
But "the most sugars" is a non-obvious concept. People assume that "sweet" onions like Vidalia and Walla Walla onions have more sugar, but they mostly have less sulfur. They are indeed suitable for eating raw or lightly cooked without tears, but if you're doing long, slow cooking, you don't need less sulfur - the sulfur is cooked out.
My understanding - and I can no longer find my source - is that onions with more sulfur and less water are likely to also have more sugar and thus, in the end, more flavor all around.
And Copra is one of those onions. It's described as "rock hard" and long keeping. Long keeping is about sulfur, and "rock hard" should, I believe, be about low water content.
So all this just adds up to: I want Copra onions. I don't have enough space with enough sun to grow them myself, so I'm on a quest.
Photo: Rainer Haessener. Wikimedia Commons. Click for Details.
I love onions. I especially love caramelized onions - not the ones that are cooked until damp and floppy with sugar added, but the ones that are cooked very slowly in fat until all water has been rendered out and what's left is the natural caramelized sugars of the onion.
This means that I want an onion with the least water and the most sugars. The first seems like a lower priority - you can always cook the water out. The second is the real priority. When the water's gone, I want an intensely oniony and sweet mass of fat and utterly collapsed onions.
But "the most sugars" is a non-obvious concept. People assume that "sweet" onions like Vidalia and Walla Walla onions have more sugar, but they mostly have less sulfur. They are indeed suitable for eating raw or lightly cooked without tears, but if you're doing long, slow cooking, you don't need less sulfur - the sulfur is cooked out.
My understanding - and I can no longer find my source - is that onions with more sulfur and less water are likely to also have more sugar and thus, in the end, more flavor all around.
And Copra is one of those onions. It's described as "rock hard" and long keeping. Long keeping is about sulfur, and "rock hard" should, I believe, be about low water content.
So all this just adds up to: I want Copra onions. I don't have enough space with enough sun to grow them myself, so I'm on a quest.
Photo: Rainer Haessener. Wikimedia Commons. Click for Details.
SOTD: Balmain Vent Vert, or, Is it possible to have too many greens?
I was debating what to wear for my Scent Of The Day, when the doorbell rang and a package addressed to me landed on the porch.That usually means perfume, and it did: Balmain Vent Vert. So that answered that question. After the Cellophane Opening Ceremony, I applied four spritzes which, judging from Himself's reaction, was about three too much. But I'm enjoying it. I'm finding that the drydown, which was nice enough with the sample, is much nicer when you're wearing plenty of the stuff.
But looking at The Collection, I became uneasy. Why did I buy Vent Vert? Well, it's the matriarch of classic green florals, as I discussed in a previous post. It's a galbanum perfume, and if you've been reading along you know that I'm a galbanum freak. And it was, frankly, cheap. And I can give away decants!
And I'm sounding like a hoarder. This isn't good.
Because there are reasons against it. This isn't the classic version of the classic - it's the second reformulation. There would be ample reason for buying the original, dark green, slightly ominous version of Vent Vert. Is there any reason besides history (sentiment - the hoarder's excuse) for buying this one?
Yes, it's a pretty green floral. And so is Chanel Cristalle, which is a better green. And Chanel No. 19, which is a much better green. And so are Issey Miyake A Scent and Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss, both of which I, um, well, already own.
And so are Le Labo Jasmin 17 and Hermes Vetiver Tonka and Miller et Bertaux Green, Green, Green, and Green and Balmain Ivoire, all of which I want to own. (OK, those aren't all green florals, but they're all green.)
I'm sure that there's such a thing as too many greens. I'm just not sure if I'm approaching that line, or if I passed it long ago. It may be time to get a grip.
Photo: Michele Ahin at Wikimedia Commons. Click for details.
BOTD: Perfumes: The Guide, by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez
Imagine that most press about movies originated with press releases from the studios themselves. And imagine that someone invented the concept of the movie review, and published a fat book of reviews of modern and classic movies. Imagine the excitement of movie buffs, and the scrambling to acquire copies, and the comparisons and arguments and cries of triumph (when opinions are vindicated) and gnashing of teeth (when they're not) that would result.
That vision should allow you to imagine the response of perfume freaks to Perfumes: The Guide.
Objective reviews have not normally been a part of the perfume world - when a perfume did get press, it was generally praise. The first version of The Guide, when it came out in French in 1992, must have created quite a stir. And I can testify that the English version, published in 2008 and offering reviews of 1500 perfumes, produced its share of excitement.
By then, the Internet was well-populated with perfume blogs and forums, and countless people expressing their opinions of old and new perfumes. But The Guide provided a single broad-ranging source of opinions by two respected names in the fragrance world, Luca Turin and now Tania Sanchez. The reviews, the ratings, the top tens, what got five stars, what got one star, what they rated, what they didn't rate - it's all fuel for endless discussion and argument.
And these people can write. I offer an excerpt from my favorite review, the one of the classic Chanel No. 22:
"Aldehydes are said to give 'lift' to a fragrance. .... Chanel 22 goes for the maximum-payload record as follows:
(1) Determine the largest dose of aldehydes a human can stand without fainting.
(2) Load it up with as much sweetness as the aldehydes can bear.
(3) Round it off with a note of iris to make it look easy.
(4) Stand back and watch the whole thing lumber off into the sky after a three-mile takeoff roll."
The mockery is gentle and affectionate for high-rated perfumes like No. 22 (it got four stars out of five). It's less friendly for the lower rated perfumes - a one-star perfume review consisted entirely of: "Only hard work and dedication can produce something as derivative and uninteresting as this."
I have the 2008 edition of The Guide. For a while, the authors published quarterly updates, but I never quite got around to buying them. So I'm pleased about the new paperback edition, which will incorporate them and a few extra reviews, for about 450 new reviews. Woohoo!
Photo: Mine
Sunday, November 1, 2009
SOTD: Parfumerie Generale Tubereuse Couture
Yum.
I've been experiencing intermittent wafts of tuberose all day. Good tuberose. Something that didn't exist, in my book, before I found this fragrance.
Clean tuberose always made me envision Annoying Women. I don't know why; it must remind me of someone. (Maybe an annoying grade school teacher?) And indolic tuberose was, well, indolic.
This perfume somehow manages to avoid both pitfalls. I think that the ylang ylang may be what's melding with the indolic notes and keeping them from making me uneasy. But they're there, and so is something close to a gourmand note, and that keeps it from being Clean Tuberose Of Annoyance.
So, yum.
I posted about this one before. Then, I was dubious but being drawn in, and planning to buy a decant. Now, I'm remembering the advice of a commenter on Now Smell This to "buy a damn bottle" when you love something.
Hmmm.
Review Roundup: Perfume-Smellin' Things and Aromascope and Fragrantica and Basenotes and The Non Blonde and Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd.
Edited to add to the Review Roundup.
Illustration: Wikimedia Commons
I've been experiencing intermittent wafts of tuberose all day. Good tuberose. Something that didn't exist, in my book, before I found this fragrance.
Clean tuberose always made me envision Annoying Women. I don't know why; it must remind me of someone. (Maybe an annoying grade school teacher?) And indolic tuberose was, well, indolic.
This perfume somehow manages to avoid both pitfalls. I think that the ylang ylang may be what's melding with the indolic notes and keeping them from making me uneasy. But they're there, and so is something close to a gourmand note, and that keeps it from being Clean Tuberose Of Annoyance.
So, yum.
I posted about this one before. Then, I was dubious but being drawn in, and planning to buy a decant. Now, I'm remembering the advice of a commenter on Now Smell This to "buy a damn bottle" when you love something.
Hmmm.
Review Roundup: Perfume-Smellin' Things and Aromascope and Fragrantica and Basenotes and The Non Blonde and Confessions Of A Perfume Nerd.
Edited to add to the Review Roundup.
Illustration: Wikimedia Commons
Events: The Ashland Halloween Parade
STAN: ...Halloween isn't about costumes, or candy. It's about being good to one another, and giving and loving.KYLE: No, dude. That's Christmas.
STAN: Oh. Then what's Halloween about?
KYLE: Costumes and candy.
(South Park, Episode 107, "Pink Eye")
In Ashland, it's also about Samba. And the parade. And, well, given that this is Ashland, they do tend to get into that being good to one another stuff.

We went to the parade. We danced along to Samba. We had a fine time. That is all.
Oh, and (update!) there are more photos after the break.
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