Showing posts with label Christopher Sheldrake. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christopher Sheldrake. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

SOTDays: Miscellaneous Tuberoses


Slacker! Me, that is.

OK, updating the perfume log:

Sunday was Tubereuse Couture. I enjoyed it very much; my taste for florals seems to be increasing, probably due to the spring weather.

Monday and Tuesday were sadly unscented.

Today I was hunting for something on a shelf and found a spray sample of Tubereuse Criminelle with the smallest drizzle left on the bottom. It took ten sprays to pump any of it out, but I can still very clearly smell it now, over ten hours later. I think that it's my favorite tuberose--definitely not the most wearable, but my favorite.

Thursday Update: This morning I noticed that the pre-shower 24-hour remnants of Tubereuse Criminelle have a distinct Little Kiddle note - a combination of plastic/rubber and flowers.  One more reason to love it.

Image: By Juni. Wikimedia Commons.

Monday, January 10, 2011

SOTD: Serge Lutens Serge Noire

So, for lack of smoky meat perfume, I went with meatless smoke. And it was nice, even if it wasn't quite what I'm craving right now. To chase that craving, I'll be sending off for some samples based on folks' kind recommendations in the comments to yesterday's post.

I was reassured to learn that Heeley Cardinal and Serge Noire have quite different roles--a bottle of each in my collection wouldn't be redundant. Serge Noire is much spicier and more challenging, even several hours after application. Cardinal is clean and smooth, with, as I've said, no "side dishes" other than a temporary waft of fruit at the beginning. They'll serve for very different occasions.

If I buy Cardinal, that is. But of course, that would be Wrong.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By Rise0011. Wikimedia Commons.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Cedre


Sweet. Sweet. Sweet. Oh, my God, sweet.

A while ago, I tried the two "one syllable C word" Serge Lutens fragrances, Cedre and Chene. I kept forgetting which was which, but since I didn't like either one of them, it didn't really matter.

But I recently fell madly in love with Chene, so it seemed like time to try Cedre again, in case I'd changed my mind about that one, too. But no. Flowers drowned in cinnamon and syrup. This is not going to work.

Review Roundup: Basenotes and Now Smell This and Perfume-Smellin' Things and Perfume Posse and Bois de Jasmin and The Non-Blonde and Perfume-Smellin' Things again and Fragrantica and PereDePierre.

Image: By Eylem Basak Ekinci. Wikimedia Commons.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Serge Noire


I didn't actually apply Serge Noire, but I wore yesterday's sweater again. And Serge Noire is that way.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By Dave Wheeler. Wikimedia Commons.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Serge Noire, and Angry Scents

I was grumpy today. Burned-up, smoldering, grumpy. So I decided to choose my perfume accordingly.

But it didn't quite work. As I commented once before, but forgot, Serge Noire is not at its best in halfhearted weather. It needs cold or heat, and on mild days like today it's just sticky.

Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle would have had a better explosive vibe. Or Chanel No. 19 would have served well as the scent of "don't mess with me" - and I see that I logged L'Arte di Gucci in that category as well.  Or Cuir de Russie might have given me that above-it-all feeling.

This is all reminding me of Miss Manners' assurance that while etiquette is normally about making others feel at ease, it can instead be used to make one's enemies feel very much the opposite, while avoiding bloodshed. The same for perfume. At least in my own head.

What about you folks? What are your angry scents?

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By Jon Sullivan. Wikimedia Commons. and PDPPhoto

Thursday, October 21, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Chergui. And musty houses.


A recent discussion on Muse in Wooden Shoes motivated me to try Chergui again. In the comments, I didn't agree that it was musty, but I've changed my mind. It's honey, tobacco, sticky pastries, and old-house mustiness.

I used to be a bit doubtful about this fragrance, but it's growing on me. Wondering why, I find that the old-house note reminds me of a great-aunt's house that my family visited many times during my childhood. The surprise is the realization that I have positive memories of the place.

We were the sort of frugal family that spent all holidays and vacations staying in relatives' homes, with the kids permanently planted on the sofa listening to the adults reminisce about the decades before they were born, telling the same stories year after year.

I have a photo-clear memory of an evening in the home of someone's cousin or school friend, when a son of the family offered me a book of Doonesbury cartoons to read. Compared to the usual experience, it might as well have been a ride on Star Tours. I had a mild crush on the son (who I believe I never saw again), and a tremendous fondness for Doonesbury, for years afterward.

I remember how orderly all of those houses were, my great-aunt's most of all. The furniture and ornaments were generally older than me, and often older than my parents - this wasn't a family that went in for decorating trends. But every single thing was impeccably maintained, dusted, cleaned, un-shabby, and when someone chose it, however long ago, they chose it carefully.

This being the American South, most houses had the traditional "for company" living room and dining room. Furniture was arranged in one position for a lifetime, and ornaments, down to the doilies, were almost as permanently fixed. The only thing likely to change in these spaces was the multicolored hard candy in the cut-glass covered dish -- another spark of excitement for visiting children bored out of their tiny minds. In one way, this sounds simply dreadful. But in another way, it reflected a commitment and attention to detail in the home environment that I craved.

My parents weren't all that interested in our home -- it was adequately furnished, adequately maintained, generally adequate. The roof didn't leak and the appliances all worked, but nobody loved it. Drawer pulls fell out and weren't replaced. Drawers got stuck, and no one squared up the furniture or ran soap along the runners. The furniture was whatever was sufficent and cheap enough when something wore out. Shabby spots happened - nobody cared enough to get those extra pieces of fabric for the arms or the heads of the chairs, at least not until the fabric was already worn through.

I particularly remember the rice pot. It lost its handle and the knob on the lid, and for my entire childhood, we lifted the lid with a bent fork poked into the hole the knob left behind, and lifted the pot with a hot pad wrapped around the metal stub that once held the bakelite handle. And nobody ever considered buying a new pot. It wasn't that we couldn't afford one, it was just that nobody ever looked at that pot and said, "This is silly. This is depressing. Let's get a new one."

So when I sniff Chergui and see my aunt's impeccable living room, full of overstuffed furniture twenty, thirty, fifty years old and infused with mustiness that even the most determined housecleaner couldn't remove, everything clean and carefully placed, wooden floors shiny enough to go sock-skating, that awful sentimental figurine on top of the piano , and all that uncluttered  space between the furniture -- that memory smells good to me.

Image: By Takk. Wikimedia Commons.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle

I love this one.

The weather isn't quite right for it - it's better when it's blazing through crisp cold air, or trying to drown you when it's hot and humid. But I still love it.

It's flowers in a bad mood. Powerful flowers in a bad mood. Flowers flaunting their ability to smell like decay and fire and death. Flowers that are in no mood to suffer fools gladly.

I wonder what percentage of lovers of Tubereuse Criminelle are cat people?

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By Hannibal Poenaru. Wikimedia Commons.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Bas de Soie

I wore it again. I loved it again. But I'm ready for something sweet and resinous and smoky again tomorrow.

Which makes me wonder if this one will take its appropriate place with all the greens, or if it will be illogically filed in memory with incensy smokey things? I met it in the company of the smokey things, see. I'll find out. Probably next summer.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Bas de Soie


Serge Lutens Bas de Soie is a vintage black and white photograph of a scent. It's "retro", not in a funny-nostalgia way, but with that unruffled elegance that no one seems to possess any longer. Many of the reviews refer to it as cold, with the two major notes battling for control. I see it as warm and sunlit and soft, with the iris and hyacinth napping together like intertwined cats, so that you can't tell where one ends and the other begins.

I initially made a proper and sensible decision to spend a few days with a sample, and think about a possible, someday, eventual purchase. Then I caught a whiff of it from my arm and scurried back to the shop - where Himself bought it for me. He does a very fine job of keeping me smelling green.

Review Roundup: The Scented Salamander and 1000 Fragrances and Grain de Musc and Bois de Jasmin and Fragrantica and Perfume Posse and Cafleurebon and Perfume Shrine and Perfume-Smellin' Things and MakeupAlley and Now Smell This and The Fragrant Foodie (scroll down) and I Smell Therefore I Am and The Non-Blonde.

Images: Wikimedia Commons.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Un Lys, and over-application without burnout


Ahhhh.

Since I was going to be alone for the daytime hours, I applied far more of this than usual - six sprays, I think. But I applied all of them well away from my nose - three on the back of my neck, three on my stomach.

This seemed to prevent the usual problem where over-application burns out the nose so that I can't smell the perfume any longer - I think that the scientific term is temporary anosmia?

So I was able to clearly smell those grainy sweet candied occasionally-momentarily-a-little-bit-skanky lilies all day.

Yum.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: Wikimedia Commons.

Monday, July 12, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens A La Nuit (MORE POWER!)

Yesterday, I (incorrectly) predicted that Caron Alpona would "drown me in essence of sticky orange liqueur." I said it as if it would be a bad thing. Drowning, smothering, or knocking down the wearer is usually undesirable behavior in a perfume.

Serge Lutens A La Nuit is an exception. I applied three sprays, and three sprays is enough to surround me with a fog of jasmine thick enough to require, if not a knife, at least a potato masher. I'm breathing in jasmine with every breath. And I want more.

This is the first perfume that has allowed me to understand the "more power" philosophy of scent. For years, I've been reading posts from people who demand to know how you can call yourself a perfume wearer if you just apply a wimpy spritz or two. Five spritzes! Seven! Fourteen! I recall people on Basenotes swearing that they've worn fifty. Normally, I just humor the crazy people and back away to a place with more oxygen. Today? Mmmm, fifty.

Don't worry - I won't put on even a little bit more.  People are coming over tonight, and they probably need to breathe.  And tomorrow I'll be back in the "less is more" camp. But today, for just a moment, I think I get it.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By Alan Light. Wikimedia Commons.

Friday, May 28, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Un Lys

Yum.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: Wikimedia Commons.


(Edited because I apparently thought, one confused day, that this was a Parfumerie Generale perfume.)

Thursday, May 13, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Un Lys, and a photo ramble


I enjoy the process of finding a picture for a post. Ambling through (usually) Wikimedia Commons is sort of like free-associating using someone else's thoughts.

Today's fragrance was Un Lys. I skipped the lily photographs, and the lilies in art, because I've used those categories several times before. In the process of searching, I did find a nice cat named Lily, but that didn't quite seem to work.

Un Lys also makes me think of penuche - that grainy, light-brown-sugar fudge. So I looked for pictures of penuche, but I've already used the one that I found.

So I looked more generally for fudge, and found a hamster named Fudge, more or less the same color as the penuche, staring dubiously at the camera. He didn't look as if he'd enjoy being part of a perfume blog, so I passed him by.

Oh, and in between Lily and Fudge, I looked at vases, because after all, the lily is a flower. There are some startling and faintly disturbing vases out there.

And then I found this landscape of lilies and trees, and liked it, so that was that. Free association complete.

Getting back to Un Lys itself: It remains lovely, as always.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Image: By ITA-ITU. Wikimedia Commons.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Un Lys

I wore a mock turtleneck. And thus unintentionally learned that Un Lys is not quite as beautiful on fabric as on skin. But it's still beautiful.

(I also learned that, wow, spring is here. Turtlenecks are over.)

Image: Wikimedia Commons.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens A La Nuit

I used to be iffy about jasmine fragrances. The clean ones were too shrill and the dirty ones were too dirty and too shrill. I was OK with jasmine as a note - my beloved No. 19 has some, and naturally so does Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint - but not as a focus. The first few times I tried A La Nuit (pre-blog), I was horrified. I was drowning. I suspect that I scrubbed.

The first time I tried it post-blog, I was surprised to find that I liked it, and that it didn't knock me flat. Today, I tried it again, and I like it even more. I don't perceive it as dirty. Or shrill. Or even all that extreme. Perfume deities help me, I find it pretty.

Is it pretty, or is my jasmine tolerance rising to an alarming level? Either way, I love this stuff today.

Review Roundup: Is here.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Thursday, April 15, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Daim Blond, and lightweight musings on leather

OK, so I decided that I was going to wear a perfume today. Absolutely. Positively. Going to.

I wanted Cuir de Russie. I craved Cuir de Russie. I couldn't find my Cuir de Russie sample. So my first choice was out. But I still wanted leather.

Cuir de Lancome didn't seem quite right when I sniffed the cap, though I can't quite say why. Too spicy for spring?

Cuir d'Iris seemed, in memory, too aggressive and dry.

Cuir Venenum, also in memory, had too much curing chemical and too little animal.

Bandit would have been great. My craving translated effortlessly into a craving for Bandit. Which, as it turns out, I'm out of. The sprayer's right there. Empty.

First lesson of the day: I like an awful lot of leather perfumes.

So I ended up with Daim Blond. Soft pale suede and fruit.

Second lesson of the day: A Cuir de Russie craving cannot be satisfied with Daim Blond. They are not colleagues. When my nose wants Cuir de Russie, Daim Blond - usually a fragrance that makes me close my eyes and do that blissful drinking it in thing - is no better than Perfectly Nice. It was all fruit today, hardly any leather.

Third lesson of the day: It's time to buy a large decant of Cuir de Russie.

And now I'm headed for more rose-scented bubbles. Hey, does anybody make leather-scented bubble bath?

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

SOTD: Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles


Ah, yes. I had a mild to moderate liking for this before. Now, in the spring, I like its medicinal, camphorous feel even better. It's another data point for my previously-discussed spring pattern. Very nice.

Image: By Wing-Chi Poon. Wikimedia Commons.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

SOTD: Un Lys. And Rambling.

When I buy a bottle after long consideration and sampling, I always worry that something will go wrong. Maybe the bottle won't be the same as the sample. Maybe the last wearing was the last time that I'll like the fragrance. Maybe the perfume will suddenly become one of those that give me a migraine.

Nope. I wore Un Lys from my new bottle for the first time, and it was just as beautifully grainy-lily as ever.

Then, despite being thoroughly lily-scented, I went perfume sampling.

First, Hermessence Brin de Reglisse. Lavender. Medicinal. Licorice. No eagerness to please.  I think I like it.

Next, Chanel No 18, the Les Exclusifs version. I wanted to try this for the ambrette seed. Like many Chanels, it's so well blended that I can't pick the notes apart. Perhaps that's why I can't describe it. A little musky, a little vegetal, a little bitter? I need to try it again.

Next, Annick Goutal Heure Exquise. I was excited that Neiman Marcus had a tester, but my excitement was dampened by the fact that they didn't actually have a bottle in stock. I tried it anyway.

I like it, but it doesn't strike me as a big market pleaser - the top notes are somewhere between "classic" and "old lady". But it got better and better as the hours went by. Now, a good twelve hours after application, that patch of skin is a lovely blend of floral and green and a little bit of powder. For a review of this one, head over to Muse in Wooden Shoes.

And finally, I gave Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia yet another try. I've discussed this one. Repeatedly. Today the elusive beeswax is showing itself, and I'm craving it again.